Here's a list of things to check when your HUA radio adapter isn't working properly with a compatible radio.

With the fairing cover off, HUA adapter removed:

1. On the 23 pin stock radio harness connector; Check to see if all contact pins are properly installed and seated into the connector housing. Verify that all contact pins come all the way to the top of their respective pin holes (excluding pin 14, not used). To re-seat these contacts, gently pry the lock tabs on either side of the contact housing (RED plastic piece) until it comes out about ¼". The contact housing does not need to be removed, only loosened. Re-seat the contact(s) by pushing them further into the connector from the wire side until they snap into place. When finished, push the contact housing back into the connector until it snaps back in place.

2. On the 4 pin terminal block connector; Check to see if all wires are properly stripped and seated into the connector housing and each terminal screw is snug. To re-seat these wires, loosen the terminal, re-strip the wire, and re-insert them into the terminal connector housing, clamping them in with the terminal screw. Don't over-tighten these screws - snug is good enough.

With the fairing cover off, HUA adapter connected to stock radio harness only, ignition on:

3. On the 4 pin terminal block connector; Using a voltmeter or test light, Check for +12V on the BAT terminal (typically yellow wire), check for +12V on the IGN wire (typically orange/red wire), and check for GROUND on the GND terminal (typically black wire). If one of these terminals fail inspection, disconnect the HUA adapter from the harness and check pins 10 and 20 of the stock radio harness for +12V, and pins 11 and 19 for GROUND. If these pins fail inspection, the problem is with your stock radio harness.

With the fairing cover off, HUA adapter installed and connected to the radio, ignition on:

4. If the radio does not power up, or functions intermittently, check for proper GROUND at the radio. Using a jumper wire, attach one end to the screw or post on the back of the radio, and attach the other end to a well known GROUND (eg. throttle side of the frame between gas tank and fairing, negative (-) terminal of battery, etc.).

5. If the radio is working, but the handle bar controls don't function, ensure that the 3.5mm phono jack from the HUA adapter is installed and seated properly into the back of the radio. In most cases the right angle side of the pigtail wire should be facing up towards the top of the radio. If the radio utilizes a single wire for steering wheel control input, check to see if it is properly stripped and clamped into the RM terminal.

Note: If you've recently changed or modified your bars and are experiencing intermittent control functions, check your switch wiring for shorts, pinches, or loosened connections in your stock wiring. This occurs more often than you would think!

We get this question all the time, due to the fact that while H-D parts counters will order you any part number you give them, they're also supposed to sell you complete kits, which sometimes include things you don't need.

So here's a list of factory H-D part numbers that we've been gathering over the years:

2011-Newer 6.5" Leg Lower Speaker Buckets
Right lower fairing bucket: 57419-11
Left lower fairing bucket: 57410-11
Grills (sold individually): 76000205
Grill mounting screw (sold individually): 10200012

2006-Newer Saddle Bag Speaker Lids (5" x 7" speakers)
Right bag lid: 90200613
Left bag lid: 90200612
Right speaker grill: 76000181
Left speaker grill: 76000180

2010-Newer CVO Road Glide Speaker Mounting Rings (5" x 7" speakers)
Right side ring (FLTR): 76000185
Left side ring (FLTR): 76000184

1998-Newer Speaker Grills and Mounting Rings
1998-Newer Standard Speaker Grill/Spacer, LH or RH (FLHT): 77047-98
1998-Newer Road Glide Speaker Grill/Spacer, RH (FLTR): HD77021-98B
1998-Newer Road Glide Speaker Grill/Spacer, LH (FLTR): HD77022-98B

Here's a list of tools needed to work in/around your fairing:

T-40 Torx Wrench
T-27 Torx Wrench
T-25 Torx Wrench
1/2" Hand Wrench
7/16" Hand Wrench
3/16" Hex Wrench
P2 Phillips Screw Driver
Wire Crimmpers
Wire Strippers
Wire Cutters

Unfortunately at this time we can't offer installation or customization as a service, as we're really set up to design, test, build, and ship our products. Maybe someday though...

These are the names given to the 2 touring fairing designs by none other than Harley-Davidson themselves. It's a simple matter of what they look like:

Sharknose Fairing
Looks like the nose of a shark, the fairing used on Road Glides.

Batwing Fairing
Looks like a bat with wings, the fairing used on Electra Glides and Street Glides.

We use this terminology around here because it's usually the only physical difference to deal with when installing an audio system in your fairing, regardless of your specific bike model.

To install a 2006-newer Harman/Kardon radio on a 1998-2005 bike, there's 3 things to consider; physical mounting/fit, wiring, and calibration (programming).

Mounting: The Harman/Kardon radio will fit and mount in exactly the same way as the Radiosound units from 1998-2005, so no problem there. You may need to reroute or relocate some wiring to accommodate a proper fit, but nothing major needs to be changed.

Wiring: There's 2 harnesses involved in installing stock H-D radio's; Main and Auxiliary.

1) Main Audio Harness (includes power/ground, hand controls, front speaker outputs)
2) Auxiliary (overlay) Harness (includes rear speaker outputs, accessory connections for XM, intercom, etc,)

The main audio harness is the same from 1998 through 2009, so for power/ground, front speakers, and hand controls, no wiring changes are needed. This means that if you're installing on a 2 speaker bike without additional options, it's a simple plug and play situation.

The auxiliary harness (also known as the overlay harness) is where the radical differences between 1998-2005 and 2006-2009 occur. If you plan to run rear speakers from the H/K radio, or utilize the Harman/Kardon XM or intercom modules (like Ultra Classics), then you'll need to buy and install the 2006-2009 overlay harness on your 2005 bike. It can be done, but it does involve some work. The best thing to do here is to obtain a copy of both factory wiring diagrams old and new, and locate the power/ground/speaker wire connection points that suit your particular needs best.

Calibration: If you can find a Harman/Kardon radio out of a 2006-newer bike that's already functioning, just plug it in, you're done. New Harman/Kardon radios come blank from H-D however, and currently the dealers are the only ones who can calibrate/program them properly. Check with your local Harley-Davidson dealer to see if they are willing to help get your new radio programmed before you install it on your older bike.

Here's some things to keep in mind when choosing the right source unit for your bike:

Factory Harley-Davison Radios
Pro's:
- Designed with headset and intercom functionality (most models)
- CB, XM*, and MP3 options available (*new Harman/Kardon units)
- Built like a tank to survive the brutal motorcycle environment
- Weatherproof and resistant to vibrations
- Display screen is designed for visibility in direct sunlight
- Hard to beat these units in the reliability category
Con's:
- Choice of looks and design style limited to only a few
- Headset, intercom, CB, XM, etc. are integrated; remove it and you lose those functions
- CB*, XM*, and MP3 options are very expensive (*new Harman/Kardon units)
- Lacks power to drive speakers loud at highway speeds without external amplification
- Speaker selection is narrowed to 2/8 ohm only (*excludes CVO high output units)
- Built like a tank, and heavy as a tank as well

Aftermarket Automotive Radios
Pro's:
- Wide variety of looks, features, and options to choose from
- Relatively inexpensive compared to factory Harley-Davidson units
- Typically lighter in weight, and physically smaller in design
- Wider speaker selection available (with standard 4 ohm outputs)
- Sony radios can be adapted to your handlebar controls
Con's:
- Headset, intercom and CB are not typically supported
- Built for the mild environment of a car, not weatherproof (excluding marine grade)
- Lacks power to drive speakers loud at highway speeds without external amplification
- Display screen is not typically designed for visibility in direct sunlight
- Many aftermarket units fail after a short time on the road (dirt, water, UV exposure, etc.)


If you want to stick with a factory radio, consider getting one of those new Harman/Kardon H-D radios.

Factory Harley-Davison Harman/Kardon Radios
Pro's:
- All the modern features available (MP3, XM, CB, etc.)
- Compatible with your existing intercom and headset equipment
- Built like a tank like its predecessors to endure the harsh environment
- Looks just like a Harley radio should; clean, simple, and black w/ amber display
Con's:
- It's expensive compared to typical aftermarket source units
- The optional modules are expensive too
- You may have to buy an overlay harness (for rear channels, options, etc.)
- You have to find a dealer willing to calibrate (program) it for you using a 2006-newer bike ECU.

Now, if you can get an H/K unit out of a 2006-newer bike that's already functioning, it can be installed in 1998-2005 bikes without re-programming (1996-1997 with our adapter harness as well). New H/K units come blank from H-D however, and currently the dealers are the only ones who can program them. See the FAQ Installing a Harman/Kardon Radio On A 2005-Older Bike for more information.

If you choose an aftermarket radio, our HUA360 adapter connects your handlebar controls to a Sony, Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood, JVC, or Clarion source units that incorporate a wired remote or steering wheel interface port. But no matter what you choose, our amplifier systems will work just fine with any source unit, stock or aftermarket, and get you rocking down the road.