A device that increases or boosts the level (volume) of an input signal by increasing its amplitude.

A single module of a power amplifier designed to carry one signal only, keeping it separated from signals in other channels (left, right, front, rear, etc.).

A fixed or adjustable electronic circuit that splits or filters an audio signals frequency bands for driving different speakers (high range, full range, low range).

There are two kinds of crossover implementations, Active and Passive:

Active Crossover - This filters selected frequencies BEFORE the audio signal is amplified, between the source unit and amplifier. Our built-in crossovers are an example of this type of crossover.

Passive Crossover - This filters selected frequencies AFTER the audio signal has been amplified, between the amplifier and speaker. Some speakers are sold with passive crossover networks included, typically a small plastic enclosure (like our DX and ZX Series), or capacitors and/or coils mounted directly to the speaker (like our SX Series).

A unit of measurement used to indicate Sound Pressure Levels (SPL) as numbers from 0dB (quiet sounds such as a whisper) to 130dB and beyond (the level at which sound is perceived as pain).

A safety device that breaks an electrical connection when current exceeding the rating of the fuse occurs (in Amps).

The amount of sensitivity an amplifiers input circuit has to the input signal, increasing or decreasing the output in dB (volume).

A crossover circuit designed to allow only high frequencies to pass through.

A crossover circuit designed to allow only low frequencies to pass through.

A measure of an amplifiers output based on the amplitude rise above ground (0 volts), regardless of signal distortion created in the process. Also used as a measure of a speaker's maximum handling capability of a power source for a short duration (typically a few seconds) without sustaining damage.

A method used to calculate the nominal power level sustainable by an amplifier or speaker. The most realistic measurement of continuous power ratings with minimal distortion, used for realistic comparisons between devices rather than measuring peak power.

A unit of measurement for power output or consumption ( P ), the product of voltage ( V ) and current ( I ) ( Watts = V x I ).

We get this question all the time, due to the fact that while H-D parts counters will order you any part number you give them, they're also supposed to sell you complete kits, which sometimes include things you don't need.

So here's a list of factory H-D part numbers that we've been gathering over the years:

2011-Newer 6.5" Leg Lower Speaker Buckets
Right lower fairing bucket: 57419-11
Left lower fairing bucket: 57410-11
Grills (sold individually): 76000205
Grill mounting screw (sold individually): 10200012

2006-Newer Saddle Bag Speaker Lids (5" x 7" speakers)
Right bag lid: 90200613
Left bag lid: 90200612
Right speaker grill: 76000181
Left speaker grill: 76000180

2010-Newer CVO Road Glide Speaker Mounting Rings (5" x 7" speakers)
Right side ring (FLTR): 76000185
Left side ring (FLTR): 76000184

1998-Newer Speaker Grills and Mounting Rings
1998-Newer Standard Speaker Grill/Spacer, LH or RH (FLHT): 77047-98
1998-Newer Road Glide Speaker Grill/Spacer, RH (FLTR): HD77021-98B
1998-Newer Road Glide Speaker Grill/Spacer, LH (FLTR): HD77022-98B

Here's a list of tools needed to work in/around your fairing:

T-40 Torx Wrench
T-27 Torx Wrench
T-25 Torx Wrench
1/2" Hand Wrench
7/16" Hand Wrench
3/16" Hex Wrench
P2 Phillips Screw Driver
Wire Crimmpers
Wire Strippers
Wire Cutters

If you're using one of our factory approved wiring kits, then that's all you need. If you'd rather go it alone, we recommend the following:

10 AWG Power Wire
10 AWG Ground Wire
Remote Turn-on Wire
30 Amp ATC Fuse
Zip Ties
Dielectric Grease Packet

Unfortunately at this time we can't offer installation or customization as a service, as we're really set up to design, test, build, and ship our products. Maybe someday though...

No, they don't. We put a lot of engineering into our amplifier designs to make them reproduce your favorite tunes without causing problems or interference with your equipment. Keep in mind that when installing a hidden antenna inside the fairing, it's a good practice to keep it 8"-12" away from any power supply source (radio, amplifier, etc.).

These are the names given to the 2 touring fairing designs by none other than Harley-Davidson themselves. It's a simple matter of what they look like:

Sharknose Fairing
Looks like the nose of a shark, the fairing used on Road Glides.

Batwing Fairing
Looks like a bat with wings, the fairing used on Electra Glides and Street Glides.

We use this terminology around here because it's usually the only physical difference to deal with when installing an audio system in your fairing, regardless of your specific bike model.

Deciding between our Direct Connect Series and our Competition or Reference Series amplifiers is more than just a question of money; It's really about what kind of system you're looking for long term. Here's the breakdown:

DCS vs. CS/RS
120W vs. 300/400W
Fixed gain vs. adjustable gain
Fixed crossover vs. adjustable crossover
Simple harness connection vs. separate PWR/GND/audio wiring

Measuring a stock system the way we rate our amplifiers, there's a huge difference in power. Even with the DCS amp and SX speakers you'll gain a whole lot of power and volume, plenty to hear at highway speeds on a stock or mild bike. For FLHX's or modified bikes (short windshields, loud pipes, etc.), we recommend the CS/RS systems for the best possible results.

In a nutshell, if you're just looking for a quick, simple installation that does the job of putting the music in your ears on the open road and does the job well, the DCS setup is perfect for most stock bikes. But if you're looking for the maximum power possible with the ability to tune and custom configure your system, try different speaker options, add more amplifiers and speakers someday, or your bike is good and loud, then the CS/RS systems are the way to go. Both are considered plug and play as neither one requires modifying any of your stock wiring, but the DCS setup is the easiest install available.

Either way, you'll get your money's worth where it counts; in your ears on the open road.

The wire colors/pins listed below are common to all 1998-2013 Harley-Davidson® factory audio harnesses. When connecting a stock radio to Hawg Wired amplifiers, these wires are used to connect the radio to the high-level inputs of the amplifier.

Connection	1998-2005 : 8 ohm	Harness Pin	2006-20xx : 2 ohm	Harness Pin
Front Left +	White/Orange	16 (23 pin main)	White/Orange	16 (23 pin main)
Front Left -	Light Green/White	17 (23 pin main)	Light Green/White	17 (23 pin main)
Front Right +	Gray/Red	18 (23 pin main)	Gray/Red	18 (23 pin main)
Front Right -	Light Green/Black	1 (23 pin main)	Light Green/Black	1 (23 pin main)
Rear Left +	Brown	10 (23 pin aux)	Brown	2 (35 pin aux)
Rear Left -	White/Brown	3 (23 pin aux)	White/Brown	25 (35 pin aux)
Rear Right +	Green	11 (23 pin aux)	Green	1 (35 pin aux)
Rear Right -	Light Green/Brown	4 (23 pin aux)	Light Green/Brown	24 (35 pin aux)

Connection	2004-2005 : 4 ohm CVO
Front Left +	Pink
Front Left -	Pink/White
Front Right +	Gray
Front Right -	Gray/White
Rear Left +	N/A
Rear Left -	N/A
Rear Right +	N/A
Rear Right -	N/A

Consider the load capabilities of the device you connect your speakers to; radio head unit or amplifier.

Harley Factory Radios:
For 2005 and older, Harley radios utilize 8 ohm speaker outputs. The new Harman Kardon radios for 2006 and beyond are using 2 ohm speaker outputs. There are also the CVO radios that are both 8 ohm (standard outputs) and 4 ohm (high outputs). Don't mix and match them. Some have been successful at using 4 ohm aftermarket speakers on the old style 8 ohm radios, but it's not recommended and could damage the radio's internal circuitry.

Aftermarket Radios and Amplifiers:
Most automotive based aftermarket radios utilize 4ohm speaker outputs. It's also the standard impedance for most amplifier systems, including our Hawg Wired amplifiers. And you guessed it; most aftermarket automotive speakers are 4ohm as well.

If you're using your radio without amplifier(s) to drive your speakers, you should match your radio to the speakers. If you're planning to use an amplifier to drive your speakers instead of the radio alone, then you only need to worry about the impedance of the amplifier to the speakers.


Consider the physical design aspects of the type of speakers you want to use.

Coaxial Speakers:
Pros - Crossover circuitry is typically integrated with the speaker, as well as the tweeter, making installation simple.
Cons - Generally don't sound as good as components and are typically rated lower (RMS).

Component Speakers:
Pros - Usually the best way to go for audio quality, typically rated higher (RMS).
Cons - Sometimes come with large crossover boxes that can be tricky to fit in the fairing, and usually requires solo tweeter mounting (on the inner fairing or in a gauge hole).


Another thing to consider is the environment your bike spends most of it's time in. If it's garage kept and never out in the rain, weatherproof speakers might not be important to you, opening up car audio options to choose from. But if you ride year round and expect things to get wet once in a while, weatherproof equipment is the way to go. All of our Hawg Wired speakers are weatherproof designs, as are aftermarket marine speakers.

So, when deciding on a speaker upgrade, keep these things in mind and choose your components accordingly to achieve the best sound possible without damaging your expensive equipment and voiding your warranty(s).