To install a 2006-newer Harman/Kardon radio on a 1998-2005 bike, there’s 3 things to consider; physical mounting/fit, wiring, and calibration (programming).

From a physical point of view, the radio will fit and mount in exactly the same way as the Radiosound units from 1998-2005, so no problem there. You may need to reroute or relocate some wiring to accommodate a proper fit, but nothing major needs to be changed.

From a wiring point of view, there’s 2 harnesses involved in installing stock H-D radio's:

1) Main Audio Harness (includes power/ground, hand controls, front speaker outputs) 2) Auxiliary (overlay) Harness (includes rear speaker outputs, accessory connections for XM, intercom, etc,)

The main audio harness is the same from 1998 through 2009, so for power/ground, front speakers, and hand controls, no wiring changes are needed. This means that if you’re installing on a 2 speaker bike without additional options, it’s a simple plug and play situation.

The auxiliary harness (also known as the overlay harness) is where the radical differences between 1998-2005 and 2006-2009 occur. If you plan to run rear speakers from the H/K radio, or utilize the Harman/Kardon XM or intercom modules (like Ultra Classics), then you'll need to buy and install the 2006-2009 overlay harness on your 2005 bike. It can be done, but it does involve some work. The best thing to do here is to obtain a copy of both factory wiring diagrams old and new, and locate the power/ground/speaker wire connection points that suit your particular needs best.

From a calibration/programming point of view, if you can find a Harman/Kardon radio out of a 2006-newer bike that’s already functioning, just plug it in, you’re done. New Harman/Kardon radios come blank from H-D however, and currently the dealers are the only ones who can calibrate/program them properly. Check with your local Harley-Davidson dealer to see if they are willing to help get your new radio programmed before you install it on your older bike.

Here's some things to keep in mind when choosing the right source unit for your bike:

Factory Harley-Davison Radios
Pro's:
- Designed with headset and intercom functionality (most models)
- CB, XM*, and MP3 options available (*new Harman/Kardon units)
- Built like a tank to survive the brutal motorcycle environment
- Weatherproof and resistant to vibrations
- Display screen is designed for visibility in direct sunlight
- Hard to beat these units in the reliability category
Con's:
- Choice of looks and design style limited to only a few
- Headset, intercom, CB, XM, etc. are integrated; remove it and you lose those functions
- CB*, XM*, and MP3 options are very expensive (*new Harman/Kardon units)
- Lacks power to drive speakers loud at highway speeds without external amplification
- Speaker selection is narrowed to 2/8 ohm only (*excludes CVO high output units)
- Built like a tank, and heavy as a tank as well

Aftermarket Automotive Radios
Pro's:
- Wide variety of looks, features, and options to choose from
- Relatively inexpensive compared to factory Harley-Davidson units
- Typically lighter in weight, and physically smaller in design
- Wider speaker selection available (with standard 4 ohm outputs)
- Sony radios can be adapted to your handlebar controls
Con's:
- Headset, intercom and CB are not typically supported
- Built for the mild environment of a car, not weatherproof (excluding marine grade)
- Lacks power to drive speakers loud at highway speeds without external amplification
- Display screen is not typically designed for visibility in direct sunlight
- Many aftermarket units fail after a short time on the road (dirt, water, UV exposure, etc.)


If you want to stick with a factory radio, consider getting one of those new Harman/Kardon H-D radios.

Factory Harley-Davison Harman/Kardon Radios
Pro's:
- All the modern features available (MP3, XM, CB, etc.)
- Compatible with your existing intercom and headset equipment
- Built like a tank like its predecessors to endure the harsh environment
- Looks just like a Harley radio should; clean, simple, and black w/ amber display
Con's:
- It's expensive compared to typical aftermarket source units
- The optional modules are expensive too
- You may have to buy an overlay harness (for rear channels, options, etc.)
- You have to find a dealer willing to calibrate (program) it for you using a 2006-newer bike ECU.

Now, if you can get an H/K unit out of a 2006-newer bike that's already functioning, it can be installed in 1998-2005 bikes without re-programming (1996-1997 with our adapter harness as well). New H/K units come blank from H-D however, and currently the dealers are the only ones who can program them. See the FAQ “Installing a Harman/Kardon Radio On A 2005-Older Bike” for more information.

If you choose an aftermarket radio, our HUA360 adapter connects your handlebar controls to a Sony, Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood, JVC, or Clarion source units that incorporate a wired remote or steering wheel interface port. But no matter what you choose, our amplifier systems will work just fine with any source unit, stock or aftermarket, and get you rocking down the road.

Consider the load capabilities of the device you connect your speakers to; radio head unit or amplifier.

Harley Factory Radios:
For 2005 and older, Harley radios utilize 8 ohm speaker outputs. The new Harman Kardon radios for 2006 and beyond are using 2 ohm speaker outputs. There are also the CVO radios that are both 8 ohm (standard outputs) and 4 ohm (high outputs). Don't mix and match them. Some have been successful at using 4 ohm aftermarket speakers on the old style 8 ohm radios, but it's not recommended and could damage the radio's internal circuitry.

Aftermarket Radios and Amplifiers:
Most automotive based aftermarket radios utilize 4ohm speaker outputs. It's also the standard impedance for most amplifier systems, including our Hawg Wired amplifiers. And you guessed it; most aftermarket automotive speakers are 4ohm as well.

If you're using your radio without amplifier(s) to drive your speakers, you should match your radio to the speakers. If you're planning to use an amplifier to drive your speakers instead of the radio alone, then you only need to worry about the impedance of the amplifier to the speakers.


Consider the physical design aspects of the type of speakers you want to use.

Coaxial Speakers:
Pros - Crossover circuitry is typically integrated with the speaker, as well as the tweeter, making installation simple.
Cons - Generally don't sound as good as components and are typically rated lower (RMS).

Component Speakers:
Pros - Usually the best way to go for audio quality, typically rated higher (RMS).
Cons - Sometimes come with large crossover boxes that can be tricky to fit in the fairing, and usually requires solo tweeter mounting (on the inner fairing or in a gauge hole).


Another thing to consider is the environment your bike spends most of it's time in. If it's garage kept and never out in the rain, weatherproof speakers might not be important to you, opening up car audio options to choose from. But if you ride year round and expect things to get wet once in a while, weatherproof equipment is the way to go. All of our Hawg Wired speakers are weatherproof designs, as are aftermarket marine speakers.

So, when deciding on a speaker upgrade, keep these things in mind and choose your components accordingly to achieve the best sound possible without damaging your expensive equipment and voiding your warranty(s).

Disconnect the negative battery terminal before doing any electrical work on your motorcycle. Always disconnect the negative (–) battery post first, followed by the positive (+), and when it's time to go back together, connect the positive (+) post first, followed by the negative (–). This can minimize the chance of sparks and voltage spikes, and is a good general practice when dealing with any DC electrical system (car, boat, motorcycle, etc.).

Bad grounds under the fairing have proven to be the number one cause of problem installs. The best place for connecting to chassis ground is always directly to the frame on a clean surface free of paint, rust, or other contaminants.

- Always use the shortest length of ground wire possible between chassis ground and the amplifier. Never use a ground wire longer than the one we provide.
- Batwing fairings, among others, are not directly mounted to the bike frame, so you must run the ground wire back through the fairing to the frame.
- The ground wire and power wire are equally important; if either one of them is compromised, the amplifier’s performance will degrade or cease to function.

If you're lucky enough to have fender and tank covers, use them every time. If you don’t, towels, rags, or even an old blanket will do in a pinch. You only have to drop a tool and chip your paint once to regret it forever.

Always install a master fuse within 12” of the battery for any additional equipment added to your motorcycle’s electrical system. The mini-fuse installed on the main amplifier only protects the internal circuitry, not the wiring. In the event of a short, failure to install a fuse near the battery can cause damage to your electrical system, or worse yet, the possibility of fire. And since the power wire for the amplifier runs directly beneath your gas tank, don’t even think about cutting corners here.

The way speaker wires are marked for polarity (+/–) varies from brand to brand. Red and Black colored wires are typically positive (+) and negative (–) respectively, but when it comes to wire pairs with one stripe, things get messy. Some manufactures use the stripe as positive (+), while others use the stripe as negative (–). Be sure to check the documentation of each component you're dealing with before making connections.

Always route wires and cables safely, avoiding sharp edges and burrs along the way. Use wire loom when possible. check for proper length to both termination points, knowing where each component mounts, before you cut anything.

Nothing. Zero. Zilch. All of our products come with everything you need to install them on a factory bike. If your install is custom and goes beyond factory limitations, let us know if we can help.

Here's a list of tools needed to work in/around your fairing:
T-40 Torx Wrench
T-27 Torx Wrench
T-25 Torx Wrench
1/2" Hand Wrench
7/16" Hand Wrench
3/16" Hex Wrench
P2 Phillips Screw Driver
Wire Crimmpers
Wire Strippers
Wire Cutters

Unfortunately at this time we can't offer installation or customization as a service, as we're really set up to design, test, build, and ship our products. Maybe someday though...

No, they don't. We put a lot of engineering into our amplifier designs to make them reproduce your favorite tunes without causing problems or interference with your equipment. Keep in mind that when installing a hidden antenna inside the fairing, it's a good practice to keep it 8"-12" away from any power supply source (radio, amplifier, etc.).

The factory speaker grills we offer on this site are for your convenience, and are also available from any Harley-Davidson parts department.

Road Glide Speaker Grills (Sharknose)
2004 & later models are already equipped with these, but in 2003 & previous years, the speaker grills mounted to the inner fairings weren't as well equipped for handling heavier aftermarket speakers. If your bike is a 2003 or older, theses newer grills are a worthwhile mounting upgrade.

Standard Speaker Grills (Batwing)
Harley upgraded to the wedge type grill in 1998, but continued shipping the Standards (with no radio) with older non-wedge style speaker grills. We've found that these newer wedge style grills work best with any speaker, hands down.

These are the names given to the 2 touring fairing designs by none other than Harley-Davidson themselves. It's a simple matter of what they look like:

Sharknose Fairing
Looks like the nose of a shark, the fairing used on Road Glides.

Batwing Fairing
Looks like a bat with wings, the fairing used on Electra Glides and Street Glides.

We use this terminology around here because it's usually the only physical difference to deal with when installing an audio system in your fairing, regardless of your specific bike model.

The best, cleanest thing to do is also the most work; remove the factory amplifier and it's entire harness from front to rear. If you'd rather not go that far though (and we wouldn't blame you), then at the very least you need to disconnect the entire harness from the bike completely.

Keep in mind that the stock amplifier harness uses T style connections to effectively "interrupt" the regular radio harness connections. When disconnecting the amplifier harness, you need to put any of the left over radio harness connections back together.

Rear Pods
Inside each pod you'll see 2 sets of wires coming in, one set from the regular radio harness, and one set from the amplifier harness. Disconnect the amplifier harness connectors, and re-connect the 2 left-over radio connectors back together. This reconnects the speaker pod wires to the rear outputs of the radio.

Under the Tour Pak
Here you need to disconnect the amplifier and harness connectors completely.

Under the Seat
Here you need to disconnect the power and ground connections to the amplifier harness.

Under the Fairing
Disconnect all of the connectors on the amplifier harness, and again re-connect the left-over connectors that were on either side of a T style connection. Be sure to disconnect the extra speaker wires piggy-backed on the front speakers too.

When you're all done, the amplifier harness will just be dead weight, which is why most people remove it and the amplifier completely. If you have the Tour Pak, seat, and front fairing apart, it shouldn't be too difficult to get out of there at this point. But leaving it on the bike won't hurt anything either, just be sure to secure all loose connectors when you're done to keep them from making noises and causing problems in the future.

It's not a matter of what sounds best, it's about matching your speakers to the device that's driving them. Every amplifier circuit, even the ones inside radios, is designed for a specific impedance (measured in ohms) at the speaker outputs. And to get the best performance from that amplifier circuit, the speakers it's driving should match the amps design. So 2 ohm speakers don't necessarily sound better than 8 ohm speakers, it's just that they both exist for different amplifier designs. When connecting speakers directly to a radio, it's the radio's built-in amplifier that should be matched. When connecting speakers to an external or stand-alone amplifier (like ours), it's the amplifier that matters, not the radio. Here's some information to help determine what your audio equipment is designed to work with properly. This information is intended for reference only, and doesn't necessarily cover all available options.

Year	OEM	Description	Specifications
1996-1997	Radio Sound	H-D Radio/Tape	2CH @ 4 ohm
1998-2003	Radio Sound	H-D Radio/Tape	2CH @ 8 ohm
1998-2003	Radio Sound	H-D Ultra Radio/Tape	4CH @ 8 ohm
2004-2005	Radio Sound	H-D Radio/CD	2CH @ 8 ohm
2004-2005	Radio Sound	H-D Ultra Radio/CD	4CH @ 8 ohm
2004-2005	Radio Sound	H-D CVO Radio/CD	2CH @ 8 ohm 2CH @ 4 ohm
1998-2005	Radio Sound	H-D Add-On Tour-Pak Amplifier	2CH @ 8 ohm
1998-2005	Radio Sound	H-D Ultra Tour-Pak Amplifier	4CH @ 4 ohm
2006-2008	Harman/Kardon	H-D Radio/CD	4CH @ 2 ohm
2006-2008	Harman/Kardon	H-D Tour-Pak Amplifier	4CH @ 2 ohm
2003-2008	Hawg Wired	All Amplifier Systems	2CH/4CH @ 4 ohm

All this ohms stuff can really get confusing, not to mention annoying, right? The simple rule to remember is this: Where a device is directly connected to a speaker is where you should match the impedance.

While both are considered 2-way speaker systems, the difference is in how the tweeter and woofer are integrated.

Coaxial or coax: Typically the tweeter is mounted on a post that runs through the center of the woofer cone and attaches to the magnet behind. The woofer cone is essentially shaped like a doughnut.

Component: Typically the tweeter and woofer are completely separated speakers, allowing the woofer cone to remaining whole. In the case of Hawg Wired component speakers, the tweeter and woofer are separate speakers (solid woofer cones), with the tweeter bridge mounted across the woofer.

Deciding between the DCS and PSC amplifier systems is more than just a question of money. It's really about what kind of system you're looking for long term. Here's the breakdown:

DCS vs. PSC
120W vs. 150W
Fixed gain vs. adjustable gain
Fixed crossover vs. adjustable crossover
Simple harness connection vs. separate PWR/GND/audio wiring

Measuring a stock system the way we rate our amplifiers, there's a huge difference in power. Even with the DCS amp and SX speakers you'll gain a whole lot of power and volume, plenty to hear at highway speeds on a stock or mild bike. For FLHX's or modified bikes (short windshields, loud pipes, etc.), we recommend the PSC systems for the best possible results.

In a nutshell, if you're just looking for a quick, simple installation that does the job of putting the music in your ears on the open road and does the job well, the DCS setup is perfect for most stock bikes. If you're looking for the maximum power possible with the ability to tune and configure your system, try different speaker options, add more amplifiers and speakers someday, or your bike is good and loud, then the PSC system is the way to go. Both systems are considered “plug and play” as neither one requires modifying any of your stock wiring.

Either way though, you'll get your money's worth where it counts; in your ears on the open road.

The wire colors/pins listed below are common to all 1998-2009 Harley-Davidson™ factory audio harnesses. When connecting a stock radio to Hawg Wired amplifiers, these wires are used to connect the radio to the high-level inputs of the amplifier.

Connection	1998-2005 : 8 ohm	2006-20xx : 2 ohm	2004-2005 : 4 ohm CVO
Front Left +	White/Orange	White/Orange	Pink
Front Left –	Light Green/White	Light Green/White	Pink/White
Front Right +	Gray/Red	Gray/Red	Gray
Front Right –	Light Green/Black	Light Green/Black	Gray/White
Rear Left +	Brown	Brown	N/A
Rear Left –	White/Brown	White/Brown	N/A
Rear Right +	Green	Green	N/A
Rear Right –	Light Green/Brown	Light Green/Brown	N/A

REM wire is not getting +12v to the amplifier
Check your wiring of the remote turn-on wire. Make sure the turn-on source is providing +12v.

PWR wire is not getting +12v to the amplifier
Check this wire all the way to the battery. Make sure the in-line fuse is installed and not blown.

GND wire is not getting ground to the amplifier
Make sure the ground location selected is providing a good, clean chassis ground.

Control cable is not connected
Make sure that the control cable connectors are seated and latched completely.

Speaker wires are not connected or shorted
Check your wiring from the amplifiers to each speaker in the system. Make sure that the wire terminals are not shorting to the bike chassis or other wires.

Input from source unit not connected properly
Check your high or low level input wiring from the source unit to the main amplifier.

Source unit has no output
Check that your source unit is functioning properly. Refer to manufacturer instructions if necessary.

Speakers damaged or aged
Check the speaker for visible signs of old age (tears or rips in the cone) or overheating (voice coil damage). Try the same speaker on a channel that isn't distorting; if the distortion stays with the speaker, replace it. If the distortion follows the speaker wires to any speaker, your source unit or amplifier may be damaged.

Input gain level set incorrectly
Set the gain level(s) using the instructions in “test and tune”. If you’ve already completed this step, try lowering the gain slightly until the distortion stops.

Low battery condition
Check your battery for proper charge and replace if necessary.

Speaker wire polarity wrong (out of phase)
Check the speaker wiring for consistent polarity (+ and - wired the same on both right and left sides).

Here’s a list of things to check when your HSA adapter isn’t working properly with a compatible Sony radio.

With the fairing cover off, HSA adapter removed:

1. On the 23 pin stock radio harness connector; Check to see if all contact pins are properly installed and seated into the connector housing. Verify that all contact pins come all the way to the top of their respective pin holes (excluding pin 14, not used). To reseat these contacts, gently pry the lock tabs on either side of the contact housing (RED plastic piece) until it comes out about ¼”. The contact housing does not need to be removed, only loosened. Reseat the contact(s) by pushing them further into the connector from the wire side until they snap into place. When finished, push the contact housing back into the connector until it snaps back in place.

2. On the 14 pin Sony radio connector (on HSA adapter); Check to see if all contact pins are properly installed and seated into the connector housing. To reseat these contacts, push them into the connector housing from the wire side until they snap into place.

With the fairing cover off, HSA adapter connected to stock radio harness only:

3. On the 14 pin Sony radio connector (on HSA adapter); Using a voltmeter or test light, Check for +12V on the YELLOW wire, check for +12V on the RED wire (with ignition switch in Accessory), and check for GROUND on the BLACK wire. If one of these wires fail inspection, disconnect the HSA adapter from the harness and check pins 10 and 20 of the stock radio harness for +12V, and pins 11 and 19 for GROUND. If these pins fail inspection, the problem is with your stock radio harness.

With the fairing cover off, HSA adapter installed:

4. If the Sony radio does not power up, or functions intermittently, check for proper GROUND at the radio. Using a jumper wire, attach one end to the screw or post on the back of the radio, and attach the other end to a well known GROUND (eg. throttle side of the frame between gas tank and fairing, negative (-) terminal of battery, etc.).

5. If the Sony radio is working, but the handle bar controls don’t function, ensure that the 3.5mm phono jack from the HSA adapter is installed and seated properly into the back of the Sony radio. In most cases the right angle side of the pigtail wire should be facing up towards the top of the radio.

Alternating Current / Direct Current.

Abbreviation for ampere, a unit of measurement for electrical current.

A unit of measurement for electrical current.

A device that increases or boosts the level (volume) of an input signal by increasing its amplitude.

The level (volume) of an electrical or acoustic signal.

To reduce the amplitude of an electrical signal (typically mute, volume down, or fade).

A person who is enthusiastic about high-fidelity sound reproduction.

A single module of a power amplifier designed to carry one signal only, keeping it separated from signals in other channels (left, right, front, rear, etc.).

Audible distortion that occurs when the peaks of an amplifier's output are flattened ('clipped'). When the input is too high, an amplifier has insufficient power to accurately reproduce the output waveform.

A fixed or adjustable electronic circuit that splits or filters an audio signals frequency bands for driving different speakers (high range, full range, low range). There are two kinds of crossover implementations, Active and Passive: Active Crossover – This filters selected frequencies BEFORE the audio signal is amplified, between the source unit and amplifier. Our built-in crossovers are an example of this type of crossover. Passive Crossover – This filters selected frequencies AFTER the audio signal has been amplified, between the amplifier and speaker. Some speakers are sold with passive crossover networks included, typically a small plastic enclosure (like our CX Series), or capacitors and/or coils mounted directly to the speaker (like our SX Series).

A unit of measurement used to indicate Sound Pressure Levels (SPL) as numbers from 0dB (quiet sounds such as a whisper) to 130dB and beyond (the level at which sound is perceived as pain).

Any difference, apart from signal level, between an original signal and one that has been amplified or processed.

An adjustable electronic circuit that increases or decreases the levels of portions of the audio signals frequency spectrum.

A safety device that breaks an electrical connection when current exceeding the rating of the fuse occurs (in Amps).

The amount of sensitivity an amplifiers input circuit has to the input signal, increasing or decreasing the output in dB (volume).

A unit of measurement for frequency, or 'cycles per second'.

A crossover circuit designed to allow only high frequencies to pass through.

The measured total resistance to current flow, as in ‘this speaker has an impedance of 4 ohms’.

A crossover circuit designed to allow only low frequencies to pass through.

The basic unit used for measuring resistance, indicated by ‘ohms’ or the omega symbol. Ohm's Law states the relationship between current ( I ), resistance ( R ) and voltage ( V ) as Voltage equals Amperage multiplied by Resistance ( V = I x R ). Also used as a way to rate an amplifier's designed impedance, and a speaker's designed impedance.

A measure of an amplifiers output based on the amplitude rise above ground (0 volts), regardless of signal distortion created in the process. Also used as a measure of a speaker's maximum handling capability of a power source for a short duration (typically a few seconds) without sustaining damage.

The electrical state of a signal or conductor, as in positive ( + ) and negative ( - ) battery or speaker terminals.

A variable resistor used to control volume, tone, or other functions of an electronic device.

A method used to calculate the nominal power level sustainable by an amplifier or speaker. The most realistic measurement of continuous power ratings with minimal distortion, used for realistic comparisons between devices rather than measuring 'peak power’.

A unit of measurement for power output or consumption ( P ), the product of voltage ( V ) and current ( I ) ( Watts = V x I ).

REM wire is not getting +12v to the amplifier
Check your wiring of the remote turn-on wire. Make sure the turn-on source is providing +12v.

PWR wire is not getting +12v to the amplifier
Check this wire all the way to the battery. Make sure the in-line fuse is installed and not blown.

GND wire is not getting ground to the amplifier
Make sure the ground location selected is providing a good, clean chassis ground.

Control cable is not connected
Make sure that the control cable connectors are seated and latched completely.

Speaker wires are not connected or shorted
Check your wiring from the amplifiers to each speaker in the system. Make sure that the wire terminals are not shorting to the bike chassis or other wires.

Input from source unit not connected properly
Check your high or low level input wiring from the source unit to the main amplifier.

Source unit has no output
Check that your source unit is functioning properly. Refer to manufacturer instructions if necessary.

Speakers damaged or aged
Check the speaker for visible signs of old age (tears or rips in the cone) or overheating (voice coil damage). Try the same speaker on a channel that isn't distorting; if the distortion stays with the speaker, replace it. If the distortion follows the speaker wires to any speaker, your source unit or amplifier may be damaged.

Input gain level set incorrectly
Set the gain level(s) using the instructions in “test and tune”. If you’ve already completed this step, try lowering the gain slightly until the distortion stops.

Low battery condition
Check your battery for proper charge and replace if necessary.

Speaker wire polarity wrong (out of phase)
Check the speaker wiring for consistent polarity (+ and - wired the same on both right and left sides).

Here’s a list of things to check when your HSA adapter isn’t working properly with a compatible Sony radio.

With the fairing cover off, HSA adapter removed:

1. On the 23 pin stock radio harness connector; Check to see if all contact pins are properly installed and seated into the connector housing. Verify that all contact pins come all the way to the top of their respective pin holes (excluding pin 14, not used). To reseat these contacts, gently pry the lock tabs on either side of the contact housing (RED plastic piece) until it comes out about ¼”. The contact housing does not need to be removed, only loosened. Reseat the contact(s) by pushing them further into the connector from the wire side until they snap into place. When finished, push the contact housing back into the connector until it snaps back in place.

2. On the 14 pin Sony radio connector (on HSA adapter); Check to see if all contact pins are properly installed and seated into the connector housing. To reseat these contacts, push them into the connector housing from the wire side until they snap into place.

With the fairing cover off, HSA adapter connected to stock radio harness only:

3. On the 14 pin Sony radio connector (on HSA adapter); Using a voltmeter or test light, Check for +12V on the YELLOW wire, check for +12V on the RED wire (with ignition switch in Accessory), and check for GROUND on the BLACK wire. If one of these wires fail inspection, disconnect the HSA adapter from the harness and check pins 10 and 20 of the stock radio harness for +12V, and pins 11 and 19 for GROUND. If these pins fail inspection, the problem is with your stock radio harness.

With the fairing cover off, HSA adapter installed:

4. If the Sony radio does not power up, or functions intermittently, check for proper GROUND at the radio. Using a jumper wire, attach one end to the screw or post on the back of the radio, and attach the other end to a well known GROUND (eg. throttle side of the frame between gas tank and fairing, negative (-) terminal of battery, etc.).

5. If the Sony radio is working, but the handle bar controls don’t function, ensure that the 3.5mm phono jack from the HSA adapter is installed and seated properly into the back of the Sony radio. In most cases the right angle side of the pigtail wire should be facing up towards the top of the radio.

Alternating Current / Direct Current.

Abbreviation for ampere, a unit of measurement for electrical current.

A unit of measurement for electrical current.

A device that increases or boosts the level (volume) of an input signal by increasing its amplitude.

The level (volume) of an electrical or acoustic signal.

To reduce the amplitude of an electrical signal (typically mute, volume down, or fade).

A person who is enthusiastic about high-fidelity sound reproduction.

A single module of a power amplifier designed to carry one signal only, keeping it separated from signals in other channels (left, right, front, rear, etc.).

Audible distortion that occurs when the peaks of an amplifier's output are flattened ('clipped'). When the input is too high, an amplifier has insufficient power to accurately reproduce the output waveform.

A fixed or adjustable electronic circuit that splits or filters an audio signals frequency bands for driving different speakers (high range, full range, low range). There are two kinds of crossover implementations, Active and Passive: Active Crossover – This filters selected frequencies BEFORE the audio signal is amplified, between the source unit and amplifier. Our built-in crossovers are an example of this type of crossover. Passive Crossover – This filters selected frequencies AFTER the audio signal has been amplified, between the amplifier and speaker. Some speakers are sold with passive crossover networks included, typically a small plastic enclosure (like our CX Series), or capacitors and/or coils mounted directly to the speaker (like our SX Series).

A unit of measurement used to indicate Sound Pressure Levels (SPL) as numbers from 0dB (quiet sounds such as a whisper) to 130dB and beyond (the level at which sound is perceived as pain).

Any difference, apart from signal level, between an original signal and one that has been amplified or processed.

An adjustable electronic circuit that increases or decreases the levels of portions of the audio signals frequency spectrum.

A safety device that breaks an electrical connection when current exceeding the rating of the fuse occurs (in Amps).

The amount of sensitivity an amplifiers input circuit has to the input signal, increasing or decreasing the output in dB (volume).

A unit of measurement for frequency, or 'cycles per second'.

A crossover circuit designed to allow only high frequencies to pass through.

The measured total resistance to current flow, as in ‘this speaker has an impedance of 4 ohms’.

A crossover circuit designed to allow only low frequencies to pass through.

The basic unit used for measuring resistance, indicated by ‘ohms’ or the omega symbol. Ohm's Law states the relationship between current ( I ), resistance ( R ) and voltage ( V ) as Voltage equals Amperage multiplied by Resistance ( V = I x R ). Also used as a way to rate an amplifier's designed impedance, and a speaker's designed impedance.

A measure of an amplifiers output based on the amplitude rise above ground (0 volts), regardless of signal distortion created in the process. Also used as a measure of a speaker's maximum handling capability of a power source for a short duration (typically a few seconds) without sustaining damage.

The electrical state of a signal or conductor, as in positive ( + ) and negative ( - ) battery or speaker terminals.

A variable resistor used to control volume, tone, or other functions of an electronic device.

A method used to calculate the nominal power level sustainable by an amplifier or speaker. The most realistic measurement of continuous power ratings with minimal distortion, used for realistic comparisons between devices rather than measuring 'peak power’.

A unit of measurement for power output or consumption ( P ), the product of voltage ( V ) and current ( I ) ( Watts = V x I ).

Nothing. Zero. Zilch. All of our products come with everything you need to install them on a factory bike. If your install is custom and goes beyond factory limitations, let us know if we can help.

Here's a list of tools needed to work in/around your fairing:
T-40 Torx Wrench
T-27 Torx Wrench
T-25 Torx Wrench
1/2" Hand Wrench
7/16" Hand Wrench
3/16" Hex Wrench
P2 Phillips Screw Driver
Wire Crimmpers
Wire Strippers
Wire Cutters

Unfortunately at this time we can't offer installation or customization as a service, as we're really set up to design, test, build, and ship our products. Maybe someday though...

No, they don't. We put a lot of engineering into our amplifier designs to make them reproduce your favorite tunes without causing problems or interference with your equipment. Keep in mind that when installing a hidden antenna inside the fairing, it's a good practice to keep it 8"-12" away from any power supply source (radio, amplifier, etc.).

The factory speaker grills we offer on this site are for your convenience, and are also available from any Harley-Davidson parts department.

Road Glide Speaker Grills (Sharknose)
2004 & later models are already equipped with these, but in 2003 & previous years, the speaker grills mounted to the inner fairings weren't as well equipped for handling heavier aftermarket speakers. If your bike is a 2003 or older, theses newer grills are a worthwhile mounting upgrade.

Standard Speaker Grills (Batwing)
Harley upgraded to the wedge type grill in 1998, but continued shipping the Standards (with no radio) with older non-wedge style speaker grills. We've found that these newer wedge style grills work best with any speaker, hands down.

These are the names given to the 2 touring fairing designs by none other than Harley-Davidson themselves. It's a simple matter of what they look like:

Sharknose Fairing
Looks like the nose of a shark, the fairing used on Road Glides.

Batwing Fairing
Looks like a bat with wings, the fairing used on Electra Glides and Street Glides.

We use this terminology around here because it's usually the only physical difference to deal with when installing an audio system in your fairing, regardless of your specific bike model.

The best, cleanest thing to do is also the most work; remove the factory amplifier and it's entire harness from front to rear. If you'd rather not go that far though (and we wouldn't blame you), then at the very least you need to disconnect the entire harness from the bike completely.

Keep in mind that the stock amplifier harness uses T style connections to effectively "interrupt" the regular radio harness connections. When disconnecting the amplifier harness, you need to put any of the left over radio harness connections back together.

Rear Pods
Inside each pod you'll see 2 sets of wires coming in, one set from the regular radio harness, and one set from the amplifier harness. Disconnect the amplifier harness connectors, and re-connect the 2 left-over radio connectors back together. This reconnects the speaker pod wires to the rear outputs of the radio.

Under the Tour Pak
Here you need to disconnect the amplifier and harness connectors completely.

Under the Seat
Here you need to disconnect the power and ground connections to the amplifier harness.

Under the Fairing
Disconnect all of the connectors on the amplifier harness, and again re-connect the left-over connectors that were on either side of a T style connection. Be sure to disconnect the extra speaker wires piggy-backed on the front speakers too.

When you're all done, the amplifier harness will just be dead weight, which is why most people remove it and the amplifier completely. If you have the Tour Pak, seat, and front fairing apart, it shouldn't be too difficult to get out of there at this point. But leaving it on the bike won't hurt anything either, just be sure to secure all loose connectors when you're done to keep them from making noises and causing problems in the future.

It's not a matter of what sounds best, it's about matching your speakers to the device that's driving them. Every amplifier circuit, even the ones inside radios, is designed for a specific impedance (measured in ohms) at the speaker outputs. And to get the best performance from that amplifier circuit, the speakers it's driving should match the amps design. So 2 ohm speakers don't necessarily sound better than 8 ohm speakers, it's just that they both exist for different amplifier designs. When connecting speakers directly to a radio, it's the radio's built-in amplifier that should be matched. When connecting speakers to an external or stand-alone amplifier (like ours), it's the amplifier that matters, not the radio. Here's some information to help determine what your audio equipment is designed to work with properly. This information is intended for reference only, and doesn't necessarily cover all available options.

Year	OEM	Description	Specifications
1996-1997	Radio Sound	H-D Radio/Tape	2CH @ 4 ohm
1998-2003	Radio Sound	H-D Radio/Tape	2CH @ 8 ohm
1998-2003	Radio Sound	H-D Ultra Radio/Tape	4CH @ 8 ohm
2004-2005	Radio Sound	H-D Radio/CD	2CH @ 8 ohm
2004-2005	Radio Sound	H-D Ultra Radio/CD	4CH @ 8 ohm
2004-2005	Radio Sound	H-D CVO Radio/CD	2CH @ 8 ohm 2CH @ 4 ohm
1998-2005	Radio Sound	H-D Add-On Tour-Pak Amplifier	2CH @ 8 ohm
1998-2005	Radio Sound	H-D Ultra Tour-Pak Amplifier	4CH @ 4 ohm
2006-2008	Harman/Kardon	H-D Radio/CD	4CH @ 2 ohm
2006-2008	Harman/Kardon	H-D Tour-Pak Amplifier	4CH @ 2 ohm
2003-2008	Hawg Wired	All Amplifier Systems	2CH/4CH @ 4 ohm

All this ohms stuff can really get confusing, not to mention annoying, right? The simple rule to remember is this: Where a device is directly connected to a speaker is where you should match the impedance.

While both are considered 2-way speaker systems, the difference is in how the tweeter and woofer are integrated.

Coaxial or coax: Typically the tweeter is mounted on a post that runs through the center of the woofer cone and attaches to the magnet behind. The woofer cone is essentially shaped like a doughnut.

Component: Typically the tweeter and woofer are completely separated speakers, allowing the woofer cone to remaining whole. In the case of Hawg Wired component speakers, the tweeter and woofer are separate speakers (solid woofer cones), with the tweeter bridge mounted across the woofer.

Deciding between the DCS and PSC amplifier systems is more than just a question of money. It's really about what kind of system you're looking for long term. Here's the breakdown:

DCS vs. PSC
120W vs. 150W
Fixed gain vs. adjustable gain
Fixed crossover vs. adjustable crossover
Simple harness connection vs. separate PWR/GND/audio wiring

Measuring a stock system the way we rate our amplifiers, there's a huge difference in power. Even with the DCS amp and SX speakers you'll gain a whole lot of power and volume, plenty to hear at highway speeds on a stock or mild bike. For FLHX's or modified bikes (short windshields, loud pipes, etc.), we recommend the PSC systems for the best possible results.

In a nutshell, if you're just looking for a quick, simple installation that does the job of putting the music in your ears on the open road and does the job well, the DCS setup is perfect for most stock bikes. If you're looking for the maximum power possible with the ability to tune and configure your system, try different speaker options, add more amplifiers and speakers someday, or your bike is good and loud, then the PSC system is the way to go. Both systems are considered “plug and play” as neither one requires modifying any of your stock wiring.

Either way though, you'll get your money's worth where it counts; in your ears on the open road.

The wire colors/pins listed below are common to all 1998-2009 Harley-Davidson™ factory audio harnesses. When connecting a stock radio to Hawg Wired amplifiers, these wires are used to connect the radio to the high-level inputs of the amplifier.

Connection	1998-2005 : 8 ohm	2006-20xx : 2 ohm	2004-2005 : 4 ohm CVO
Front Left +	White/Orange	White/Orange	Pink
Front Left –	Light Green/White	Light Green/White	Pink/White
Front Right +	Gray/Red	Gray/Red	Gray
Front Right –	Light Green/Black	Light Green/Black	Gray/White
Rear Left +	Brown	Brown	N/A
Rear Left –	White/Brown	White/Brown	N/A
Rear Right +	Green	Green	N/A
Rear Right –	Light Green/Brown	Light Green/Brown	N/A

To install a 2006-newer Harman/Kardon radio on a 1998-2005 bike, there’s 3 things to consider; physical mounting/fit, wiring, and calibration (programming).

From a physical point of view, the radio will fit and mount in exactly the same way as the Radiosound units from 1998-2005, so no problem there. You may need to reroute or relocate some wiring to accommodate a proper fit, but nothing major needs to be changed.

From a wiring point of view, there’s 2 harnesses involved in installing stock H-D radio's:

1) Main Audio Harness (includes power/ground, hand controls, front speaker outputs) 2) Auxiliary (overlay) Harness (includes rear speaker outputs, accessory connections for XM, intercom, etc,)

The main audio harness is the same from 1998 through 2009, so for power/ground, front speakers, and hand controls, no wiring changes are needed. This means that if you’re installing on a 2 speaker bike without additional options, it’s a simple plug and play situation.

The auxiliary harness (also known as the overlay harness) is where the radical differences between 1998-2005 and 2006-2009 occur. If you plan to run rear speakers from the H/K radio, or utilize the Harman/Kardon XM or intercom modules (like Ultra Classics), then you'll need to buy and install the 2006-2009 overlay harness on your 2005 bike. It can be done, but it does involve some work. The best thing to do here is to obtain a copy of both factory wiring diagrams old and new, and locate the power/ground/speaker wire connection points that suit your particular needs best.

From a calibration/programming point of view, if you can find a Harman/Kardon radio out of a 2006-newer bike that’s already functioning, just plug it in, you’re done. New Harman/Kardon radios come blank from H-D however, and currently the dealers are the only ones who can calibrate/program them properly. Check with your local Harley-Davidson dealer to see if they are willing to help get your new radio programmed before you install it on your older bike.

Here's some things to keep in mind when choosing the right source unit for your bike:

Factory Harley-Davison Radios
Pro's:
- Designed with headset and intercom functionality (most models)
- CB, XM*, and MP3 options available (*new Harman/Kardon units)
- Built like a tank to survive the brutal motorcycle environment
- Weatherproof and resistant to vibrations
- Display screen is designed for visibility in direct sunlight
- Hard to beat these units in the reliability category
Con's:
- Choice of looks and design style limited to only a few
- Headset, intercom, CB, XM, etc. are integrated; remove it and you lose those functions
- CB*, XM*, and MP3 options are very expensive (*new Harman/Kardon units)
- Lacks power to drive speakers loud at highway speeds without external amplification
- Speaker selection is narrowed to 2/8 ohm only (*excludes CVO high output units)
- Built like a tank, and heavy as a tank as well

Aftermarket Automotive Radios
Pro's:
- Wide variety of looks, features, and options to choose from
- Relatively inexpensive compared to factory Harley-Davidson units
- Typically lighter in weight, and physically smaller in design
- Wider speaker selection available (with standard 4 ohm outputs)
- Sony radios can be adapted to your handlebar controls
Con's:
- Headset, intercom and CB are not typically supported
- Built for the mild environment of a car, not weatherproof (excluding marine grade)
- Lacks power to drive speakers loud at highway speeds without external amplification
- Display screen is not typically designed for visibility in direct sunlight
- Many aftermarket units fail after a short time on the road (dirt, water, UV exposure, etc.)


If you want to stick with a factory radio, consider getting one of those new Harman/Kardon H-D radios.

Factory Harley-Davison Harman/Kardon Radios
Pro's:
- All the modern features available (MP3, XM, CB, etc.)
- Compatible with your existing intercom and headset equipment
- Built like a tank like its predecessors to endure the harsh environment
- Looks just like a Harley radio should; clean, simple, and black w/ amber display
Con's:
- It's expensive compared to typical aftermarket source units
- The optional modules are expensive too
- You may have to buy an overlay harness (for rear channels, options, etc.)
- You have to find a dealer willing to calibrate (program) it for you using a 2006-newer bike ECU.

Now, if you can get an H/K unit out of a 2006-newer bike that's already functioning, it can be installed in 1998-2005 bikes without re-programming (1996-1997 with our adapter harness as well). New H/K units come blank from H-D however, and currently the dealers are the only ones who can program them. See the FAQ “Installing a Harman/Kardon Radio On A 2005-Older Bike” for more information.

If you choose an aftermarket radio, our HUA360 adapter connects your handlebar controls to a Sony, Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood, JVC, or Clarion source units that incorporate a wired remote or steering wheel interface port. But no matter what you choose, our amplifier systems will work just fine with any source unit, stock or aftermarket, and get you rocking down the road.

Consider the load capabilities of the device you connect your speakers to; radio head unit or amplifier.

Harley Factory Radios:
For 2005 and older, Harley radios utilize 8 ohm speaker outputs. The new Harman Kardon radios for 2006 and beyond are using 2 ohm speaker outputs. There are also the CVO radios that are both 8 ohm (standard outputs) and 4 ohm (high outputs). Don't mix and match them. Some have been successful at using 4 ohm aftermarket speakers on the old style 8 ohm radios, but it's not recommended and could damage the radio's internal circuitry.

Aftermarket Radios and Amplifiers:
Most automotive based aftermarket radios utilize 4ohm speaker outputs. It's also the standard impedance for most amplifier systems, including our Hawg Wired amplifiers. And you guessed it; most aftermarket automotive speakers are 4ohm as well.

If you're using your radio without amplifier(s) to drive your speakers, you should match your radio to the speakers. If you're planning to use an amplifier to drive your speakers instead of the radio alone, then you only need to worry about the impedance of the amplifier to the speakers.


Consider the physical design aspects of the type of speakers you want to use.

Coaxial Speakers:
Pros - Crossover circuitry is typically integrated with the speaker, as well as the tweeter, making installation simple.
Cons - Generally don't sound as good as components and are typically rated lower (RMS).

Component Speakers:
Pros - Usually the best way to go for audio quality, typically rated higher (RMS).
Cons - Sometimes come with large crossover boxes that can be tricky to fit in the fairing, and usually requires solo tweeter mounting (on the inner fairing or in a gauge hole).


Another thing to consider is the environment your bike spends most of it's time in. If it's garage kept and never out in the rain, weatherproof speakers might not be important to you, opening up car audio options to choose from. But if you ride year round and expect things to get wet once in a while, weatherproof equipment is the way to go. All of our Hawg Wired speakers are weatherproof designs, as are aftermarket marine speakers.

So, when deciding on a speaker upgrade, keep these things in mind and choose your components accordingly to achieve the best sound possible without damaging your expensive equipment and voiding your warranty(s).

Disconnect the negative battery terminal before doing any electrical work on your motorcycle. Always disconnect the negative (–) battery post first, followed by the positive (+), and when it's time to go back together, connect the positive (+) post first, followed by the negative (–). This can minimize the chance of sparks and voltage spikes, and is a good general practice when dealing with any DC electrical system (car, boat, motorcycle, etc.).

Bad grounds under the fairing have proven to be the number one cause of problem installs. The best place for connecting to chassis ground is always directly to the frame on a clean surface free of paint, rust, or other contaminants.

- Always use the shortest length of ground wire possible between chassis ground and the amplifier. Never use a ground wire longer than the one we provide.
- Batwing fairings, among others, are not directly mounted to the bike frame, so you must run the ground wire back through the fairing to the frame.
- The ground wire and power wire are equally important; if either one of them is compromised, the amplifier’s performance will degrade or cease to function.

If you're lucky enough to have fender and tank covers, use them every time. If you don’t, towels, rags, or even an old blanket will do in a pinch. You only have to drop a tool and chip your paint once to regret it forever.

Always install a master fuse within 12” of the battery for any additional equipment added to your motorcycle’s electrical system. The mini-fuse installed on the main amplifier only protects the internal circuitry, not the wiring. In the event of a short, failure to install a fuse near the battery can cause damage to your electrical system, or worse yet, the possibility of fire. And since the power wire for the amplifier runs directly beneath your gas tank, don’t even think about cutting corners here.

The way speaker wires are marked for polarity (+/–) varies from brand to brand. Red and Black colored wires are typically positive (+) and negative (–) respectively, but when it comes to wire pairs with one stripe, things get messy. Some manufactures use the stripe as positive (+), while others use the stripe as negative (–). Be sure to check the documentation of each component you're dealing with before making connections.

Always route wires and cables safely, avoiding sharp edges and burrs along the way. Use wire loom when possible. check for proper length to both termination points, knowing where each component mounts, before you cut anything.